Fact Sheet Growing Roses Pruning Winter Care

Fertilizing, Pruning and Winterizing Roses With the abundance of information available on roses and rose care, there is still some mystery about their proper care and maintenance. For every different type of rose available, there is probably a gardener with a different approach to caring for roses. It is as much of an art as it is a science to growing beautiful roses, but the following information will give you some important basics to help demystify the process. This fact sheet will discuss fertilizing, pruning and winterizing roses. Fertilizing Roses grow best in the pH range of 5.5 to 7.0. Soils testing below 5.5 will need an amendment of dolomitic lime, 7 to 8 pounds per 100 square feet, to raise the pH into the desired range. Powdered sulfur can be used to lower the pH. For soils with a pH between 7 and 7.5, add one pound of sulfur per 100 square feet; for a pH between 8 and 8.5, add two pounds of sulfur per 100 square feet; and for soil with a pH over 8.5, add three pounds of sulfur per 100 square feet. Some soils are often deficient in iron when the pH is above 6.5. Iron sulfate can be used instead of powdered sulfur to decrease the pH and provide the needed nutrient. Also, chelated iron products are available for foliar feeding or soil application. Soil texture, which is the relative percentage of sand, silt and clay composing soil, will influence the amount and frequency of fertilizer application. Sandy loams, for instance, will require more frequent applications because they drain rapidly, leaching essential nutrients. They contain little clay and possibly organic matter that would normally hold nutrients. It is always a good idea to amend your soil with organic matter, such as humus, peat moss, manure or composted sewage sludge for an added source of slow release nutrients. The addition of organic matter will also improve the soil's drainage and nutrient holding capacity. It is recommended that two to four inches of organic matter be added and worked into new beds to a depth of 12 inches. Many gardeners find the combination of organic materials and a fast release, complete, inorganic fertilizer, such as a 5-10-5, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12, works best to produce beautiful roses. Roses do well with an application of 3 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet (or 0.3 pounds of actual nitrogen per 100 square feet), divided into three applications per year. To calculate how much fertilizer to apply depending on the formulation, use the following example. Example:Using 5-10-5 fertilizer at the rate of 3 pounds actual nitrogen/1000 square feet.3.0 pounds actual nitrogen divided by 0.05 (5% nitrogen in 5-10-5) = 60.60 pounds divided by 10 (1000 square feet to 100 square feet) = 6.0 pounds of 5-10-5 fertilizer per 100 square feet.Using the above example, a total of 6 pounds of 5-10-5 fertilizer will be applied to a 100-square-foot rose bed per year. The 6 pounds will be divided into three applications (2 pounds each); the first in mid to late May (for spring planted roses the fertilizer should be applied after new green vegetative growth begins), the second in mid-July, and the third in the autumn after a killing frost, or very early in the spring before new growth begins. Pruning Basically, pruning is done to improve the appearance of the plant, to remove dead or diseased wood, to let in sunlight and air to the center of the plant and to control the quantity and quality of the flowers produced. Deadheading, or the removal of spent blooms during the season, encourages more blooms (on continuous blooming varieties), improves the appearance of the plant, and removes potential harboring sites for disease organisms. Prune rose bushes to a uniform height, between 12 and 24 inches; remove suckers below the soil line. Pruning Bush RosesFollowing a logical sequence of steps while pruning will help make the job seem less complicated. The first step is to remove any dead, diseased or damaged wood. Cut the stems one inch below darkened areas, making sure you are cutting back to green wood. Make the cut at a 45 degree angle about 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud. Inspect the pith (center of the stem). It should be white. If tan colored, continue pruning sections of the stem until the pith appears white. The second step is to remove branches that grow toward the center of the plant. This opens up the plant for better air circulation and allows sunlight to penetrate the inner portion of the plant.The third step is to locate crossing branches and remove the weakest one. Crossing branches may rub against each other, causing abrasions that may serve as openings for disease organisms to enter the plant. Remove sucker growth, which is growth coming from below the bud union. Sucker growth is from the root stock and is a different rose variety; if not removed, sucker growth will crowd out the desired variety. Finally, prune to shape the plant. Hybrid teas, grandifloras and floribundas can be pruned 12 to 24 inches in height, leaving up to 9 to 12 large (1/2 inch diameter), healthy canes. Old, shrub and species roses should be pruned lightly, removing no more than 1/3 of the growth. Miniature roses need only minimal pruning. Pruning Climbing Roses Climbing roses bloom continuously on the current season's growth. They are moderately vigorous and their flexuous stems lend themselves to supports, such as, fences, pergolas, arbors, and walls. Examples are 'Handel,' 'Iceberg,' 'Meg,' Rosa banksiae 'Lutea' and Rosa 'Mermaid.' When planting new bare root plants, trim the roots only, not the shoots. Tie the shoots to a support system to train. Early the following spring, while the plant is still dormant, shorten flowered laterals to four or five buds. If pruning an established climber, prune the flowered laterals in the spring, the same way you would a new plant. Remember to remove any dead or diseased wood or stems arising from below the bud union. For climbers that are several years old, some of the oldest wood can be removed at the base to encourage new growth.Climbing roses bloom continuously on the current season's growth. They are moderately vigorous and their flexuous stems lend themselves to supports, such as, fences, pergolas, arbors, and walls. Examples are 'Handel,' 'Iceberg,' 'Meg,' Rosa banksiae 'Lutea' and Rosa 'Mermaid.' When planting new bare root plants, trim the roots only, not the shoots. Tie the shoots to a support system to train. Early the following spring, while the plant is still dormant, shorten flowered laterals to four or five buds. If pruning an established climber, prune the flowered laterals in the spring, the same way you would a new plant. Remember to remove any dead or diseased wood or stems arising from below the bud union. For climbers that are several years old, some of the oldest wood can be removed at the base to encourage new growth. Winter Protection Winterizing roses is a very important maintenance practice to ensure vigorous growth from year to year. There are several things you can do to make sure your roses survive Ohio winters long before the cold winds blow. First, choose the most winter hardy roses available to plant in your rose bed. Next, make sure your roses are healthy and not under stress because they have a better chance of surviving winter than weak plants. Reduce stress on roses going into the dormant season by irrigating adequately in late autumn and discontinuing nitrogen application in late summer or early autumn.For minimum winter protection, tie canes of bush roses together, then mound soil 8 to 10 inches high around canes. Hybrid Teas, grandifloras and floribundas should be protected from winter damage after a killing frost but before the soil freezes. Depending on your area that would be late October till late December. Reduce breakage of tall canes by winter winds by cutting them back to 30 to 36 inches and tying tips together. Remove dead and fallen leaves around the plants. Hill soil over the center of the plants in broad rounded mounds at least 12 inches high and 12 inches wide. Cover the soil mounds with a mulch of leaves, straw, boughs, or some similiar material.Another method includes using all mulch, such as, wood chips, sawdust, shredded hardwood, or pine bark, instead of soil, mounded to 15 to 18 inches. Some gardeners prefer to construct wire mesh cylinders to surround each plant, which they fill with mulch. Still others use rose cones, baskets with bottoms cut out or burlap to wrap the plants. Call For Price 440-320-7854